Review: Foundation Series Paints

Before I invest whole hog in new paint lines, I like to check out a few of the paint line’s colors. I do this to this to see if the new paint is going to be worth investing in. Well I spent a cozy evening with two colors in the Foundation Paint Series by Games Workshop and here are my thoughts.

Because I play Dark Angels I decided to pick up Mechrite Red and Orchide Shade. The main thrust of my experiment was to see exactly the type of coverage I could expect, paint thickness, and to test the rumored drying speed

Coverage
Wow! The descriptions in the “White Dwarf” were not kidding. This stuff can cover black like no other’s business. I didn’t paint the stuff directly on the model from the paint pot. I transferred paint to my palette, and then thinned it with my “gunk” mixture. (Gunk is a mixture of water, flow improver, and slow dry additives. For more info on “gunk” go here.) This thinned mixture went on well. The nice part about the thinned paint is that it took fewer coats to obtain coverage.

Normally it takes 6 to 8 coats of almost any color to obtain coverage over a black primer coat. With the Foundation Series Paints it took two thin coats to obtain coverage. (I would like to emphasize that when I said thin I meant it. I thinned the paint 1 part paint, to 1 part gunk mix, and 1 part water.) When it comes to coverage this paint does the trick.

Paint Thickness
This paint is about as thick as standard GW paint. If you use a lot of GW paint you will understand the maxim of the Heavy Metal Team: Always thin your paint. The Heavy Metal Team has this maxim because GW paints tend to be a little thicker than the Vallejo or the Reaper Master Series paints. An experienced painter will thin any paint that they use to some degree.

If a painter doesn’t thin the Foundation Series Paints the results they will obtain are atrocious. The best way to describe it is leaving a paint pot open for an hour and then painting from that pot without thinning the paint at all. If the painter paints over details they may as well start over because this paint will appear to fill details in like putty. I think that this effect is also heightened by this paint’s opacity

Drying Speed
Straight out of the pot this paint dries almost as fast as rubbing alcohol. This has some advantages and disadvantages. The advantage is that is if you are trying to turn out a fully painted army as fast as you can then this paint is the way to go. Foundation Series Paints are perfect for assembly line painting. This is because by the time you reach the end of your assembly line the first model will be dry and ready for the next color.

This fast drying can be a disadvantage. When it is thinned with anything, it is terribly difficult to blend, and needs to be manipulated almost as soon as it is painted. During my session an example of this was experienced while painting an arm. I started at the shoulder and moved my way towards the hand. By the time I had finished the hand the shoulder was already dry. This occurred in the space of less than a minute.

Overall Opinion
Using the Movie Critics star system, I will rate this with paint brushes in lieu of stars. So out of five paint brushes I give this 2 1/2 paint brushes.

I’m giving it this rating because Foundation Paints are a great tool for the intermediate to advanced painter. It allows these painters to paint a nice saturated base color from which to work up from. The experience I had with the paint was that it was great for laying down my base color tones. It worked well for painting red over black, and for painting an eve shade of green. I wasn’t inclined to use it any further than that. As soon as I had the base color I was looking for I immediately switched over to my GW and Reaper Master Series paints because of the vibrancy, flow, and workability of these colors.

I would recommend giving them a try. Try them in a color that you use often and are familiar with. I would not recommend sinking $45 on them unless you are absolutely sure you know you will want and use them.

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Laying Your Plans Part 2

In our last installment we talked about the various stages of the game and how to plan for them. I will continue using the stages of the game discussion to further develop my ideas on planning. Last time I touched on movement and this time I’m going to focus solely on moving your units.

The main idea of your movement is to be goal oriented. At the start of the game you should have a basic idea of how you want your units to move, and where they need to go. In Chess there is a school of thought called “Position over Piece.” This school of thought states that your control over a position on the game board is of primary importance. Thus the importance of any one piece, other than the king, is secondary to controlling your board position. What this means is control your positions at all costs. I bring this school of thought up because to obtain your position on the field you need to move there.

With this in mind we will look at two aspects of movement. The first aspect is offensive movement and the second is defensive movement. These aspects of movement will help you achieve and maintain your goals.

Offensive troop movement is the type of movement that we are the most familiar with. It is very straight forward movement. Its main goal is to provide you’re your troops with opportunities to attack. Ultimately this is what we will have to do if we are hoping to win.

When we make offensive moves there are a few considerations we will make. First we must consider how the movement will help our troops inflict the most damage. Next we think about how our move will help us achieve the mission objectives. Last we need to ensure that our movement doesn’t reduce the effectiveness of our other units.

As we probe into the first of our considerations, we look at few battlefield factors. Maximum damage is achieved through clear lanes of fire, reducing the opponent’s chances of taking cover, and maximizing weapon potential. A good example of this is moving a troop armed with bolt guns within 12” of an opponent in order to utilize the Rapid Fire rule.

The second consideration we need to make can make or break the chance for victory. Alpha level missions make the mission primary in importance. Failure to obtain the objective means a loss. For Gamma level missions and higher the victory points for the missions can ruin your chances for victory.

If we delve deeper into this subject we begin to see that there are some items that require some scrutiny. When we are moving towards the objective we should figure out an estimated time of arrival. If we estimate that it will take us four rounds to reach an objective purely through moving then it will be in our best interests to get there as fast as possible.

Once we have estimated the speed of our arrival then we look at how likely we will be able to hold the objective. If you lack the ability to hold the objective then it doesn’t make a lot of sense to move towards it. If this is the case then we might want to think about how we can time, or plan, our movement to deny the objective to our opponent.

Our third overall consideration is watching for how our movement can affect our army’s effectiveness. This seems like a “no-brainer” but I’ve seen how not taking this into account can hurt a force’s effectiveness. The most basic question to ask one’s self when moving is, “How will this stop me from shooting or assaulting?” By asking this question you will be able to make better moves. When you move your troops watch your lanes of fire, assault routes, and routes, toward the objectives. An example would be assaulting a wide formation in such away that the close combat blocks your other troops from obtaining targets in future rounds.

After talking about offensive movement lets talk about defensive movement. Defensive movement is a fine art that requires forethought, ingenuity, and a flair for the cut throat. The main idea behind defensive movement is preventing your opponent from doing something. There are three major actions we look at preventing: movement, shooting and assault.

When trying to move defensively we look at a few factors. We look at what battlefield terrain is on the table, and second we look at what troops and vehicles we possess that can fill this role. Terrain and vehicles do the lion’s share of the work, but troops may also be utilized for defensive movement.

Terrain serves many purposes. It can provide cover, slow movement, and block lines of sight. Creative use of terrain can potentially provide an extra turn of shooting, improved initiative in close combats, and excellent lanes of fire. Never underestimate what terrain can do.

Vehicles can assist your army in reaching their objective or your opponent. From main line battle tanks to the standard APC’s all vehicles can help your troops make it to their objective. For example a line of thee Chimeras nose to tail across the board can provide a 12” wall for your troops to run behind. Some vehicles can also claim objectives which can potentially be useful near the end of the game.

Troops can also be moved defensively. One of the most common ways is to move a unit forward to intercept a potential assaulting unit so the remainder of your force may escape. This will give your force a chance to take up a better firing, or defensive, positions from which to engage your opponent from. Also never forget the at least 1” away rule. This can help mange your opponent’s movement.

The big idea that I will leave you with is that movement can make or break you. Plan your movement. If you make and execute your plans then you will be dictating the actions of battle to your opponent instead of having your opponent dictate your actions.

Next time we will build on movement and move into the shooting phase.

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Creative APC Driving

There are many other uses for the Rhino besides the rolling pill box, portable wall, and instant terrain. Here are some other creative uses for the Rhino that I’m sure will give your Rhinos more mileage.

Long Range Rapid Fire
This is my favorite of all of the uses of the Rhino. Since you can’t assault from a Rhino if you have moved said vehicle you can certainly shoot. The 4th ed. rules on Rapid Fire made this a perfect tactic for any marine player. So what you do is jump your marines out after moving 12” deploy the 2” away from the door and light your opponent up. If you got first turn and they deployed at the front edge of their deployment zone then you most surely get some hits in.

This tactic is also very useful for increasing the range of our friend the melta gun. Especially if your opponent has vehicles deployed 24” from you. AP 1 means that if you hit all your penetration rolls will be penetrations. This tactic is especially useful in cracking open full Rhinos so your Devastator squads can ruin the squads contained within.

Bracketing
Ever find yourself in a situation where you are facing a particularly nasty IC. End your troubles with bracketing. What you do is create a very narrow lane of fire either between two Rhinos or a rhino and area terrain. Now you make sure that the only closest target is that pesky enemy IC in that narrow lane. Once you have done this gun away and watch that pesky IC disappear.

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The Miraculous Magnificent Multi-Melta

A not often used and usually ignored heavy weapon is the Multi-Melta. This weapon is usually overlooked because its range is terribly short when compared to the other heavy weapons. Also the move or fire component of this weapon limits this weapon’s usefulness to short range fire fights or one shot per game situations. These components along with power and utility of the other heavy weapons really make this weapon look like a weak choice.

Benefits
There are some real benefits that make this a weapon worth taking. The first benefit is its point cost effectiveness. In the new Dark Angel codex it is 10 and 15 points depending if you are fielding it in a Tactical Squad or Devastator Squad. This makes this weapon a good candidate for selection especially if you are looking to trim points out of your force.

The next benefit of this weapon is its power. Strength 8 AP 1 doesn’t seem like much but when faced nose to nose with a Land Raider you will always get a penetrating hit. Also the extra die of penetration will help if vehicles get within half the distance of your range. The low AP will allow you to get confirmed kills on anything you wound.

There are also some hidden benefits. A hidden benefit that I have found quite handy is so many folks treat this as a weapon of no consequence, and therefore they tend to ignore it as they are shooting at your army. This allows squads that are packing this weapon the opportunity to get close enough to use it.

The ability to establish a forward firebase is also something worth considering as a hidden benefit. What I mean by this is your opponent is most likely ignoring these deadly weapons, and therefore they are able to get up into position relatively unscathed. This enables this squad to dominate through firepower the position they take up. If you add this with a few supporting tactical squads you will find that you are wiping away the opposition with little resistance.

Applications
Now that we have covered the benefits lets talk about the tactical applications of this weapon. These applications are fairly sound and typically lack the flair for the broken that is usually seen with most tactical discussions.

I call this first tactic “Shoot and Slide.” Unfortunately this is a tactic that only a Black Templar Army may use, but it is a sound tactic. I came up with this tactic while fighting my friend’s Templar Army. I had noticed that his army lacked any real distance tank busting ability. This was hurting him because I was able to get my tanks and APC’s up close. His general response was that the army was a mobile force and didn’t have the time to wait for heavy weapons.

As I considered this I discovered a way that Templar players can have their cake and eat it too. “Shoot and Slide” basically relies on the Templar “Fall Forward” rule. What one would do, who is interested in this tactic, is place a unit that has a Plasma Gun and Multi-Melta in a spot that will draw the attention of enemy shooting, e.g. near a mission objective. Because you are grabbing their attention your opponent will want to shoot at you. In effect your opponent will be “reeling in” the squad with the Multi-Melta. This will drag your Multi-Melta into range without you ever making a conscious effort of moving, and you will be able to fire your heavy weapon because “Fall Forward” doesn’t count as movement for purpose of shooting.

The purpose and benefit of the Plasma Gun is two-fold. First it has the same range as the Multi-Melta and the bolters. Second it has the chance to overheat and kill the marine. Now I bet you have just read that last sentence more than once. Overheat is a good thing in this case. What you are doing is making your rules work for you. What you are hoping for is the gun overheating on you and forcing you to move closer to the enemy. This will at least help you inch ever closer to your opponents lines especially if he gets wise to you using your rules to your benefit.

There is a related tactic I call “Point Blank Fall Back”. This tactic relies on the Marine unit with the Melta weapon failing a fall back check. What you are hoping for is an enemy vehicle near enough to the fall back corridor that once the move is done you will be able to plug the vehicle with your Melta weapon at the start of your turn from within half the weapon’s range. Alternatively this can also be useful for getting back to your lines to deal with a particularly nasty unit in your deployment zone. (This Tactic wasn’t initially a tactic but a move of desperation made while loosing. It illustrates why you should play out your games because you can learn things not normally garnered from winning.)

Our next maneuver I call “Wall of Tank”. What we do to accomplish this maneuver is walk our Multi-Melta devastator squads up behind advancing tanks or Rhinos on turn one. On turn two if the vehicles are still mobile move the tanks out of the way and let rip with. If the tanks have been immobilized in some way chances are still pretty good that you will have something to shoot at.

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Laying Your Plans part 1

In any game of Warhammer Fantasy Battles or 40k you must plan your game. As the old adage says, “He, who fails to plan, plans for failure.” It may be cliché, but it is so true. With this in mind I am beginning a series on planning your battles.

In this first installment we are going to talk about the various stages of the game. The “stages of the game” idea is not new. In fact I’m borrowing it directly from the best strategy game man has ever created: Chess. If you want a better understanding of these concepts I would suggest going down to your local library and checking out any number of Chess books that they certainly have in the stacks.

In the game of Chess there is no fixed game length like there is in any variant of Warhammer, but there is an opening, middle, and an end. These are fairly distinct phases, and most experienced chess players know what phase of the game they are in. By knowing where they are in the game they are able to play accordingly.

In Warhammer you should have a rough idea about what you want your units to do while you are deploying them, but by the time your first turn occurs you should have a solid idea what each unit is going to accomplish throughout the game.

The Opening
The opening in any Chess game will make or break your game. Failing to complete your opening as you have planned will cost you the game. This school of thought in Chess was given to me by Gary Kasparov, and in any game of Chess I have ever played, as well as Warhammer, this theory has held true.

The point of the opening phases of the game is to position your pieces/ forces to optimize their mid game attacks. Control is the name of the game in the opening. You are working on obtaining the perfect position to strike from. You are moving to position yourself to capture/secure/achieve objectives. This is also a great time to create appearances. (I will get into that thought in a latter article.)

Game opening should never go more than two turns. If it does chances are real good you didn’t plan your opening. The main idea of the opening is positioning your units in such a way that in the mid game they will be able to get the most bang for their buck.

Now don’t think I’m advocating the idea that you should only move to the exclusion of all else. What I’m saying is get yourself in a position so that your units can shine, e.g. many experienced players will not place their units in the gun sights of a Vindicator so use that knowledge to help secure objectives.

Advice for Openings
In the opening turns of the game never give in to the temptation to react to the actions, or inactions of your opponent. Feel free to respond to your opponents actions but do not abandon your plan. When you understand the difference between responding and reacting you will begin to control your games.

The biggest regret that I hear from the losing side is, “I should have stuck to my plan.” This is any player’s biggest challenge and best hope for a win.

The Middle or Mid Game
The mid game is the point where the “rubber is meeting the road.” An old military adage that works here is, “The plan of attack will not survive contact with the enemy.” This is the point of the game where your plans combined with your dice rolls are making or breaking you.

The focus in the mid game is scoring units. If you can prevent your opponent from scoring you will win the game. Focus on taking your opponents units below 50%. Give special attention to forces that are near the objective. By keeping objectives opponent free you will force his troops to move, to get out of place, and generally make your opponent’s game life difficult.

Advice for Mid Game
While working on keeping your objectives opponent free make sure you have units ready and able to grab objectives. If you have a way to bring in reserves then make sure that you do. Reserves will help you respond to your opponent’s weakened forces and may help you grab objectives.

This is where you tweak your battle plan but don’t make such a large tweak that you spoil your overall plan. Use your master plan to make your adjustments.

The End or End Game
Have you ever found yourself in the middle of turn four and said, “I’m losing”? Well now you know how to spot the end game. It is the point within the game where every move every dice roll only solidifies your win or your loss. In my experience, I’ve seen the end game as early as the end of turn two, and as late as the final dice roll.

Success in this phase is totally dependent on your ability to succeed in your opening. What you set up at the start of the game will come to fruition at the end of the game. When you reach the end game ask yourself this, “Am I winning or am I losing?” The answers to this will dictate what you should do.

If you are losing then try and narrow the margin of loss between you and your opponent. Who knows? Maybe you’ll squeeze out a draw by the end of the game. This might help you especially if you are in a tourney. It is far easier to recover from a draw then a loss.

If you are winning then your entire goal is to clench your win by increasing your margin of victory. This may sound like a no brainer to you, but I can’t begin to tell you how many times I’ve watched my opponents drop the ball and give me huge wins or draws. The game isn’t over until the end of turn six.

Advice for End Game
Focus. If you keep your eye on the ball you will accomplish your goals

Next time... Plans for moving

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A Review of “Codex: Dark Angels”

Now that we have had a month plus to look at, consider, and make cunning plans; lets get down to the brass tacks of this book. Some would say that the strength of this new codex lies in the Ravenwing and Deathwing special rules. Some have said the strength of this codex is in the special characters. I disagree with all of these opinions. The heart and soul and strongest rule of this codex is Combat Squads. Some readers may ask why I think this is the greatest achievement of this codex. I’ll explain.

Tactical Flexibility

Recently I’ve been noticing a disturbing trend in Basic Marine Armies. Many Marine players have been moving in the direction of squads as delivery systems for tooled up characters. I don’t blame players for this shift.

Since 3rd edition 40k I’ve seen marines played one of two ways: Firing Line, and Blitzkrieg. The Firing Line tactic has been the most prevalent, while Blitzkrieg has been a more recent advent of 4th edition.

Most Marine players, myself included, have noticed that most of the unit weapon upgrades were point sinks to stick unused points in. Flamers, if taken, barely got fired. Melta Guns, might have, got a single shot off per game. Plasma Guns are useful if you plan on standing off and shooting, but are otherwise a waste especially if you wanted to assault. Infantry heavy weapons of any sort were only useful when you were standing off and shooting, but became completely useless when the battle became a running gun fight.

The Combat Squad special rule finally allows the heavy weapons to do their job, while the special weapons can move up and get into firing range. It gives the Dark Angels a strong firebase, without affecting their ability to run and gun.

Mission Completion
I touched on this a little in the last section. Most of the missions require that the player move out of their deployment zone and secure, capture, or destroy something. Very few of the missions allow the player to win by sitting back and shooting. Because of this many Marine armies went with the objective denial strategy, which would almost always run into problems if their opponent got last turn.

Combat Squads allow the Dark Angels to send out elements to accomplish the mission. It also provides an on the field reserve element by making the opponent engage the units more likely to accomplish the mission. (On the field reserves are units that will most likely still be at full strength near the end of the game, and able to be a scoring unit.)

Scoring Units

Besides the Imperial Guard and the Land Raider Transport option, there are no other armies that I know of in 40K that can create multiple scoring units from one slot on the Force Organization Chart. The ability to have multiple scoring units from one slot is invaluable. It is invaluable because the chosen force will give up Victory Points stingily.

What these multiple units also do is saturate the field with individual units. Imagine for a moment that you and your opponent both have 11 Force Organization selections, but because you are playing Dark Angels your 11 selections are 22 scoring units. Not only are they 22 units, but they are 22 individual units that must each be targeted separately. Most armies have a difficult time killing 5 marines with a single unit, and that alone is the beauty of the Combat Squad special rule.

The Ravenwing and the Deathwing have their place within the ranks of a Dark Angels army. However, if you want tactical flexibility, the ability to accomplish your missions, and more scoring units than your opponent then accept no substitutions. Take Combat Squads.

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The Magic of Guessing Range part 2

In our last installment we talked about math and using parts of your body as reference in aiding you in guessing range. In this installment we are going discuss battle field reference points and advanced math techniques. It always helpful to have a scratch pad at your table for these techniques.

Battle Field Reference Points

This technique was garnered by watching the movie “Kingdom of Heaven.” In Warhammer Fantasy Battles you cannot pre-measure out into the field, but while you are deploying you can use a ruler to measure spacing between units and leadership radius. You know the depth of your deployment zone what you’re determining is the width. Get a rough idea where the middle of your deployment zone is. Get to know where the middle of each table quarter is. (It is real easy. In a basic game of WHFB it will be 12” in from the left or right table edges at the front of your deployment zone.) Make mental notes or written notes where these points are. Also make written or mental notes where these reference points are in your opponent’s side. (This is accomplished by drawing mental lines from your points to the front of your opponent’s deployment zone.)

Now that you have made a mental or written map where these point are you are ready to apply step two.

Advanced Mathematics

Scarecrow in “The Wizard of Oz” summed up the principle we are going to use: Pythagorean Theorem. It states: In any right triangle the length of the hypotenuse is equal to the sum of the squares of the two sides. Simply put a² + b² = c². This is where we combine techniques.

Using our battle field references, we can now determine where a unit is on the field plus or minus to the closest point. So now all we do is apply a little math and we will know exactly where they are.

Example: Enemy unit is 6” out of their 12” deployment zone and 6” to your left of the center line of the table. Your Empire Mortar is at 6” in your deployment zone and 12” from your right table edge. This means that your opponent’s unit is 18” to the left of your mortar and 24” forward. This makes their unit exactly 30” away from your mortar.

Tips on These Techniques

First and foremost: work on these calculations during your opponent’s turn. This will speed up how long you take during your turn. Next you want to practice. If you practice you will increase your speed, and after a while you’ll be able to eyeball ranges. Third don’t be afraid of over or under guessing you will improve with time.

Tricks of the Trade

Tip 1 A very common occurrence in WHFB is to see your opponent measure the distance between their missile troops and your troops to see if they are in range. This measurement works both ways. So the tip is never let any measurement get wasted. If you get quick enough you’ll be able to see potential charge distances, firing distances, and other items that are considered guesses.

For example I had an opponent not believe that I was in range with a Whirlwind shot I had made, and asked me to measure it out. I measured the distance for him, but as I was doing this I made mental notes of everything that I could possibly hit.

Tip 2 Mark your deployment zone short at the beginning of the game. You can mark it short, at most, by about an inch to an inch and a half. The human eye, and most casual observers, won’t be able to tell 10 ¹/₂” and 12” apart. It looks pretty close. If your opponent is working under the assumption that you deployed 12” in when you really deployed at 10” then you might experience a failed charge or they miss with missile troops. I’ve seen many a dwarf player do this so that they get the ability to charge.

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The Magic of Guessing Range Part 1

So have you ever played against anyone who seems to never miss with their artillery? Or played against a marine player that when you question his distance retorts with, "You're right it's not 48 inches it's 43 and 3/4 inches." What makes it worse is that they are right. Well dear reader I am about to expose the secrets and mysteries behind guessing range.

Ever wonder how ancient man made measurements? It was with his body. There are only two measurements that we'll need to concern ourselves with the span and the cubit. A span is the measurement from the tip of your thumb to the tip of your pinky when they are spread out at their widest. The cubitis the tip of your middle finger to your elbow. The measurements are roughly 6 and 18 inces respectively. These are good reference guides if you need a rough idea of what 6 or 18 inches looks like.

The better method is math. Math is your friend. If math is too tough for you I repeat the instructions of the 13th Warrior, "Grow stronger." It is well worth your time and it gets you to pay attention during the entire game. If the unit is directly in front of you then by knowing how far on the table you deployed, plus how deep your opponent deployed, subtracted from the overall length of the table you will have the exact distance between you and your enemy.

Next time we'll look at more complex guessing and little dirty tricks to use.

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Well here is one of many images of Reaper's Dire Drake Kaladrax.

Painting:

Primer Coat: Krylon Black Primer

I then used multiple coats of drybrushing. The Skelatal parts were drybrushed about 6 times with GW Scorched Earth. Then drybrushed about four times with GW Graveyard Earth. I then drybrushed 3 coats of GW Bleached Bone, and then hit it with one drybrushed coat of GW Skull White.

The horns and claws were drybrushed with two coats of GW Shadow Grey. The fleshy parts of the wings were drybrushed 6 times with GW Scorched Earth. Then drybrushed 3 times with GW Dark Flesh, and 3 times with GW Vermin Fur. The base (not shown) was drybrushed in succesive layers of GW Codex Gray adding white. He took about 30 hours grand total including sanding, puttying, and painting.

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Paint Stripping

Paint stripping models: This is for all those here in America Who don't have a DIY near them

Tools needed: Simple Green, Paint Stripping Brush, Old Tooth Brush, small plastic Foldgers can with lid

Shopping for tools: At the Home Depot near me in Aus, TX the paint stripping brush and Simple Green are on the same aisle (which was also on the same aisle as the varnish). Paint stripping brushes have a white handle and red nylon bristles keep asking until you find someone who can lead you to it. (I had to ask 10 people before I found someone who actually knew what I was talking about.)

Use: Drop Minis in coffee can, cover with undiluted simple green, put the lid on, leave in garage, or other out the way location. (I wouldn't leave it in your house cause it will make girlfriend/ wife/ S.O. fairly uptight after the third day of smelling sassafras) I let this concotion steep for 5 to 7 days for maximum effect. Using your paint stripping brush scrub your model until clean. I would use the tooth brush on plastic minis because the paint stripping brush has a light sandinig effect on plastics you may not want.

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Rules of the Road

Rules of the Road
This is not exhaustive. These are rules that I will have in effect for this Blog. If you don’t agree please refer yourself to Rule 1 until you do.

1. My Blog my rules.
2. The First Amendment protects me not you. Since this is my Blog I reserve the right to edit, censor, delete, etc. I will leave most stuff alone unless it breaks these other rules.
3. Be gentle. I’m an amateur posting on my hobby.
4. Please no flaming or personal attacks. You may not agree with me and that’s ok.
5. Please reasonably and logically post your views and comments.
6. Please no profanity. If your vocabulary is so limited that you must express yourself that way then *&%$#@! use the old comics code way or bleep yourself. I’m trying to keep this work/family/kid friendly.
7. I’ll follow my rules. If I don’t, let me know.
8. Have fun.

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My first post

I'll post my rules later, but this is going to be my blog on my hobby and hobby related stuff so you should all hear from me soon.

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