tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33526419508006872052024-03-05T20:39:49.332-08:00Tactical RockA litle blog about miniatures, and the wargaming done with them.Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.comBlogger51125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-72465576493430409842013-05-24T18:18:00.001-07:002013-05-24T18:22:01.617-07:00Hobby: Care and Feeding Your Paint Brushes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2-DXB6SHNazDOCoNZ-lasHtoJsd_IV9pALhjyC9QzSQcGEVM-0POYR8dWNuuE73FfCKWI2krjAwsLcE_4llcusaNFM4FDFER6KGWmPPqD6YobIbtdqY_qkSlnzCvY28DT7AvB2y4tH4in/s1600/IMG_20130524_141459.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2-DXB6SHNazDOCoNZ-lasHtoJsd_IV9pALhjyC9QzSQcGEVM-0POYR8dWNuuE73FfCKWI2krjAwsLcE_4llcusaNFM4FDFER6KGWmPPqD6YobIbtdqY_qkSlnzCvY28DT7AvB2y4tH4in/s320/IMG_20130524_141459.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Of all of the tools we use, the most important are our paint brushes. As you
get more into painting you’ll want to invest in good brushes. I use Winsor
& Newton Series 7 brushes while <a href="http://goatboy40k.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Goatboy</a> uses Raphael Series 8404 brushes.
Most of us buy these on the Internet at a discount but they still represent a
decent investment in our tools. As with any tool proper care will ensure a long
life with lots of use.<br />
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At the end of any painting session you’ll want to give your brush a thorough
cleaning with clean water and brush soap. The brush soap I recommend for
regular cleaning is the Masters Brush Soap. This soap comes as a cake of soap
in a plastic container. The nice thing about this soap is that it quickly
removes the light pigments that build up in the bristles as you paint. It
always surprises me how much color this soap removes from the brush even after
I think I’ve completely rinsed the brush out.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5ISkP5kFCpxUsvX1BGDsycoUFTdNon8pJ-eP-0t5dVmLO07Bl-2x7B-tcFEQwLG0ojq7rS1v5l_lSB6UFoQxNbHZhV5FfcHJjFfoD1vLblrx9GRNaxKq09Wtrjx5avdeGlHeXhwZySaVO/s1600/IMG_20130524_141523.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5ISkP5kFCpxUsvX1BGDsycoUFTdNon8pJ-eP-0t5dVmLO07Bl-2x7B-tcFEQwLG0ojq7rS1v5l_lSB6UFoQxNbHZhV5FfcHJjFfoD1vLblrx9GRNaxKq09Wtrjx5avdeGlHeXhwZySaVO/s320/IMG_20130524_141523.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Over time small amounts of paint will find its way up into the ferrule of you
brush. These little deposits will hinder your brush from maintaining a decent point.
When your brush has reached this point you can resurrect the point. Winsor
& Newton Brush Cleaner and Restorer is the tool for this job.<br />
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There are brush rinsing pots for soaking your brushes in but pay for something
that is easy to make? All you need is two bamboo skewers, a pill bottle, and
some poster tack. Now once you set up your rig add the brush cleaner to go
above the ferule. From here on out just follow the directions on the bottle of
Brush Cleaner, and your brush will be back in pro form in no time.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7jWjhcZQrxYIPHrNvhvwOuyFZFJaudeSC5VYjAjjIJHQRcmOhALSoyk4-ZhWam1FJzBYJE-54acIvEvY278IfxOam7q4cov7SGquFi8O5mtYaAdm64MfFnngOWoTxvI5YsZewrX1TRL8f/s1600/IMG_20130524_141420.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7jWjhcZQrxYIPHrNvhvwOuyFZFJaudeSC5VYjAjjIJHQRcmOhALSoyk4-ZhWam1FJzBYJE-54acIvEvY278IfxOam7q4cov7SGquFi8O5mtYaAdm64MfFnngOWoTxvI5YsZewrX1TRL8f/s320/IMG_20130524_141420.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i><span style="color: #990000;">How do you keep your brushes in top form?</span></i></div>
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Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-87016440548675926542012-07-17T19:44:00.000-07:002012-07-17T19:44:11.993-07:00Back in the saddle<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZLuS_YK-NDxp5PKRFewo3U55c2lPXAQbdw-8gBSFD8TEQnrFB-P2PpQVUVidBBiM15EU7ZqiRh1D6ChGXjNFSqhu4G5EQeX9zvFtigZW0JX4Zir3WC42MqRCn_Olbsbk2a2uPb4SGV6Lr/s1600/100_1665.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZLuS_YK-NDxp5PKRFewo3U55c2lPXAQbdw-8gBSFD8TEQnrFB-P2PpQVUVidBBiM15EU7ZqiRh1D6ChGXjNFSqhu4G5EQeX9zvFtigZW0JX4Zir3WC42MqRCn_Olbsbk2a2uPb4SGV6Lr/s320/100_1665.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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For your Viewing Pleasure A new hobby video:<br />
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<br /><br />As always leave your thoughts in the comments.Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-9343416807055356292011-03-24T06:15:00.000-07:002011-03-24T06:15:01.150-07:00Warlord 101<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU9IbV7WooVKbQtXfok-NXP1WGkzgiP5VtQb9wq9Qin3FQhmUuCMQpb8MyRW4XePEULI2oxzebAiZKVOI_2pHZWOQFrtXVz0lH0irf32EDAs9uJJ93nb-fo2tOmHJRhJdswYdgVcin7ZKw/s1600/logo_warlord_black.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="103" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU9IbV7WooVKbQtXfok-NXP1WGkzgiP5VtQb9wq9Qin3FQhmUuCMQpb8MyRW4XePEULI2oxzebAiZKVOI_2pHZWOQFrtXVz0lH0irf32EDAs9uJJ93nb-fo2tOmHJRhJdswYdgVcin7ZKw/s400/logo_warlord_black.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>It is time for another game system review by yours truly. Warlord is Reaper Miniature’s fantasy wargame. It is a skirmish level game set in a high fantasy realm that looks like it could be a D&D campaign realm with all the usual trappings. So let’s look at this game.<br />
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<b>Setup</b><br />
Both players bring forces of a predetermined point size with 1000 points being the recommended size. These forces are chosen from 18 factions that are found in two books and one online faction. Both books contain the core rules, so you will only need to buy the book containing the faction you want to play.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyV0jSEhZ-kaf0wbwEnMnNojaE6b-g8z4GVpqytWOyvaNQ0WQMLuiKt_jcquEqMaL5YoYLdmiOljITVGmZzpJxdlGDRvpqqzt3nTjMaxNJj9T-v51L9UIfLyFJqC8D9u4ogjoMx-Xupf_F/s1600/25101_p_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyV0jSEhZ-kaf0wbwEnMnNojaE6b-g8z4GVpqytWOyvaNQ0WQMLuiKt_jcquEqMaL5YoYLdmiOljITVGmZzpJxdlGDRvpqqzt3nTjMaxNJj9T-v51L9UIfLyFJqC8D9u4ogjoMx-Xupf_F/s320/25101_p_1.jpg" width="238" /></a></div>From these factions you construct your army. Armies are broken down into individual troops. Each troop is made up of a leader, basic troops of varying ability, and sometimes an elite model. Some troops can also consist of one model and these single model troops are usually powerful monsters or heroes. <br />
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The game is played on a 48”x48” table. It is played with a 10 sided die. Terrain can be as abundant as you wish, and the terrain rules are more abstracted, i.e. no true line of site. <br />
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Before the start of the game, players will need to create an initiative deck. An initiative deck is smaller deck of cards created by using a standard playing card deck of 52 cards. Each player chooses a suit (color is best) and a card is added to the initiative deck for every troop a player has. Certain game rules allow for more or less cards to adjust the size of the deck.<br />
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<b>The Game Turn</b><br />
Each game turn has three distinct phases: initiative, action, and end. The initiative phase is where the top card of the initiative deck is turned over. The suit that is showing indicates which player may activate a single troop. The player then conducts actions for that troop. After which the players flip over the next card on top of the initiative deck and repeat the process. It is possible that a player may activate several troops in a row before their opponent does. <br />
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The action phase is where troops do things. Every model can make two actions. There is no set order of actions, so models can charge and then fight or they can fight and then move off. This no set order of actions gives a player some tactical flexibility. The actions are grouped by movement, combat, specialty and free actions. <br />
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After all troops for both players have activated a single time then the end phase happens. The end phase is basically clean up for the turn. Certain effects will happen, the initiative deck can be altered if troops are wiped out, and the initiative deck is reshuffled <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8YQv9qO_dGEifIlmwlup4CcyNJ23oEGe_4Uj5thd6b8QHWypSIOT1_8iCal5MdWe8oM8k1JNHNkc7E0spsLMs1-Z8TJLNhfIALTBQBRfrtz9xiPggM5nib4zdJ29iEiSVMLk5hvaUYMiB/s1600/25102_p_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8YQv9qO_dGEifIlmwlup4CcyNJ23oEGe_4Uj5thd6b8QHWypSIOT1_8iCal5MdWe8oM8k1JNHNkc7E0spsLMs1-Z8TJLNhfIALTBQBRfrtz9xiPggM5nib4zdJ29iEiSVMLk5hvaUYMiB/s320/25102_p_1.jpg" width="250" /></a></div><b>End Game</b><br />
The game has two types of victory conditions which players must agree upon at the start of the game. Wipeout your opponent is one. The other is play to turn 5, calculate points of what is left on the table, and the player who has more points left wins. This isn’t to say players can’t design their own scenarios or victory conditions, but those are the two conditions provided in the book.<br />
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<b>Conclusion</b><br />
Overall I like this game. I think it provides both a beer & pretzels sort of feel while also allowing for some nice tactical depth. Although there are synergies in this game many of the tactics are based around timing actions correctly, which I am a bigger fan of. I really like the flexibility of turn actions, and the intermixed player activations. I think it’s a game worth trying especially if you enjoyed Mordheim. <br />
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<div style="color: #cc0000;"><i>So what are you’re thoughts on fantasy skirmish games? If you’re in Austin, TX on April 14th at 7:00 PM I’ll be running a Warlord demo at <a href="http://dlair.net/austin/">Dragon’s Lair</a>. Stop on in, say hi, and roll some dice with me. </i></div>Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-5614974298025769982011-03-21T06:15:00.000-07:002011-03-21T06:15:00.995-07:00HOBBY: Adhesives 101<div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaIsgx5h6oSBjOSCYoOCYXH5FwD_-7TjANSOjCeJHsIMvMu1AyJJpjAsa9GXFi8Vki37nEnyY8rMuocCAFCi4vfV0LOBqOZlG9RRBIqq7RQpgQ4CZyOUCJVIptZQyHJYBzDVT2jgzuJFTV/s1600-h/Adhesives.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5326511536937825538" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaIsgx5h6oSBjOSCYoOCYXH5FwD_-7TjANSOjCeJHsIMvMu1AyJJpjAsa9GXFi8Vki37nEnyY8rMuocCAFCi4vfV0LOBqOZlG9RRBIqq7RQpgQ4CZyOUCJVIptZQyHJYBzDVT2jgzuJFTV/s320/Adhesives.jpg" style="float: left; height: 306px; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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<div>For the miniature enthusiast there are three types of glue they are familiar with. The most common and most widely used is cyanoacrylate or CA glue. Its more common name is super glue. The other two glues that are used are plastic cement and epoxy. All three have their place in the hobbyist’s arsenal, and this is why I am going to take a closer look at them.<br />
Cyanoacrylate is an acrylic resin adhesive that utilizes water as a hardener. It doesn’t shrink and it can bond two dissimilar surfaces together. The main benefits are fast drying times, and relative decent bonds. Its drawbacks are that certain plastics and non-porous materials may make it difficult for the give to form bonds. Also the glue, when fully hardened is brittle, which may cause breakage.<br />
Now that we know what CA glue is let’s look at using its properties to help us. CA glue is the workhorse glue of the wargamer’s universe. The primary reason is because one can assemble an army in a relative short period of time. Also with a little effort you can cause the glue bond to fail, which means you can easily change out model configurations with edition or codex changes. The drawbacks to this glue mean overtime your tabletop figures will break because of stresses from handling and transport.<br />
Epoxy is the least used of all the glues. It is a two part process consisting of a resin and a hardener. It has a longer drying time than CA glue, which can be advantageous. It has a stronger bond than CA, and it doesn’t suffer from shrinkage like water based glues. Once it is fully hardened it can be sanded and drilled.<br />
Since epoxy is the red headed step child of the modeling world I thought I would explain why you should use it. Its best use is with large multi piece models, and resin kits because it makes strong bonds that will support the weight of your figure. Because it takes longer to harden, you can also quickly clean up any glue mess that should occur on your figure. It will also help fill gaps. The increased hardening time does mean that you will need to get comfortable to hold the pieces in position, or if you can work it out a hobby vise or a third hand tool will work just fine.<br />
Finally, there is our good old standby plastic cement. (As a word of caution the warnings on the bottles about the fumes being flammable and harmful are spot on. The reason why you get the “high” sensation is because your brain is suffering hypoxia or lack of oxygen. This can kill you, so please use your plastic glue in well ventilated area.) Plastic glue is unlike our other two glues in that it is not a resin but a solvent. It works by dissolving and softening the plastic molecules, and after a few minutes to twenty four hours the two pieces of plastic are literally welded together. Many wargamers avoid plastic glue because many of their projects utilize plastic and metal parts, or they like the abilty to pop apart old models to redo for newer codices.<br />
Plastic Cement comes in many varieties. The most commonly known is the Testors Plastic Cement in a tube. This is thicker of the plastic cements and has a gel like consistency. Gel cements can take several minutes to set and then a minimum of 24 hours to cure. Gel cements give you an amount of working time much like epoxy. That way you can get your join in the exact position you want. On the other end of the spectrum you have plastic glues that are almost like water. Plastic Weld is one that comes to mind. It has a set time of a few seconds and will reach full cure in minutes.<br />
My preferred glue of choice is Testors Model Master Model Cement. It comes in a black triangular bottle and is more liquid like. It is more workable than Plastic Weld but will set quicker than the tube glue. The bottle recommends a full 24 hours to cure, but I’ve slapped paint down after only two hours. I am fan of the plastic cements because not only does it glue, but it also fills gaps.<br />
Glue of any type is incredibly based on what your personal tastes. I have provided this more to help beginners and veterans gain a better understanding of the tools available to them and that there are options available. </div><br />
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<div><span style="color: #cc0000;"><i>So what glue do you use the most, and do you have any gluing tips you would like to share with the community?</i></span></div></div>Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-20103993589065301842011-03-17T08:15:00.000-07:002011-03-17T09:40:57.180-07:00Hobby: Buying an Airbrush Setup<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR0ikc0ml2CtvSVM8y2nl29k0RCjepJQNaD2R3s5V7giEKrPvPuN6lNs1NrjesGhGKzbQcsq3fOzSot_37F2g5_3pZjTqVltSlxOz0bHjwT6ZnHqmLzjJfcAUClEuUfybZVG5ZWqCjup5S/s1600/p-mil-set-s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="171" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR0ikc0ml2CtvSVM8y2nl29k0RCjepJQNaD2R3s5V7giEKrPvPuN6lNs1NrjesGhGKzbQcsq3fOzSot_37F2g5_3pZjTqVltSlxOz0bHjwT6ZnHqmLzjJfcAUClEuUfybZVG5ZWqCjup5S/s400/p-mil-set-s.jpg" width="400"></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Today lets talk about buyin and setting up your first airbrush. My first foray into the world of airbrushing was 12 years ago...<br>
</div><a href="http://tacticalrock.blogspot.com/2011/03/hobby-buying-airbrush-setup.html#more">Read more »</a>Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-23792991712847415062011-03-16T08:15:00.000-07:002011-03-16T08:15:00.479-07:00Faves & Raves: Reaper Releases 3-14-11<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDcDbZ8STVNO5TsXnWTz2nntcL-jbXImn87hYVlKYRa4DYTYiCNA8DXWukEPPDaCOHdOaosIrWMzaaQPYtHqJEowmxkF_dhV8J3f3erFmux5EGcGXj2L6nody_TfBzF6cdX2qTo9zr4S3y/s1600/New.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDcDbZ8STVNO5TsXnWTz2nntcL-jbXImn87hYVlKYRa4DYTYiCNA8DXWukEPPDaCOHdOaosIrWMzaaQPYtHqJEowmxkF_dhV8J3f3erFmux5EGcGXj2L6nody_TfBzF6cdX2qTo9zr4S3y/s1600/New.png"></a></div><br>
Instead of rehashing what is being released this week I'm going to look at what my favorite releases are in this current set of releases. <a href="http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/42017-releases-for-03-14-11/">To see the entire list of releases you can go here.</a> Let's begin: <br>
<a href="http://tacticalrock.blogspot.com/2011/03/faves-raves-reaper-releases-3-14-11.html#more">Read more »</a>Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-5769428066675740322011-03-15T06:28:00.000-07:002011-03-15T06:32:57.255-07:00News: Savage Worlds and Reaper<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.reapermini.com/misc/SW_promo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="160" src="http://www.reapermini.com/misc/SW_promo.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Look what showed up late last night. Reaper just announced they will be producing the official miniatures for Savage Worlds. I'm excited to see where this goes. <br />
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For the full details you can read the story <a href="http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/42020-pinnacle-reaper-team-up-for-savage-worlds-miniatures/page__pid__590017__st__0&#entry590017">here</a>.Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-3627921005078023442011-03-14T08:00:00.000-07:002011-03-14T08:00:01.190-07:00Hobby: Green Stuff Pro Tips<div align="justify"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXnospMjhCGH2PUc4NGnmlpHjsRiPUovwORN43V9BI7XV9kY9NLQwHTmX5SgtSl4DjAyg6AsYfTCsl9XFhJtktbHYXF3liNG-0ePPnmp3UAlZpkQ9BopNb1R_nTO1rPw2nGXXK9xLcldwF/s200/GStubes.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXnospMjhCGH2PUc4NGnmlpHjsRiPUovwORN43V9BI7XV9kY9NLQwHTmX5SgtSl4DjAyg6AsYfTCsl9XFhJtktbHYXF3liNG-0ePPnmp3UAlZpkQ9BopNb1R_nTO1rPw2nGXXK9xLcldwF/s200/GStubes.jpg" style="float: left; height: 200px; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; width: 160px;"></a>It’s time to look beyond the basics when it comes to working with green stuff. </div><a href="http://tacticalrock.blogspot.com/2011/03/hobby-green-stuff-pro-tips.html#more">Read more »</a>Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-60125248067473732112011-03-13T06:00:00.000-07:002011-03-13T06:00:07.284-07:00News: A Leprechaun Sighting<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.reapermini.com/graphics/gallery/4/03579_g_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.reapermini.com/graphics/gallery/4/03579_g_1.jpg" width="225"></a></div>So this just turned up on the Webmaster of Reaper Miniatures desk on March 10th. Do we have a possible St Patrick's Day release? Who knows, but he looks pretty fun. <br>
<a href="http://tacticalrock.blogspot.com/2011/03/news-leprechaun-sighting.html#more">Read more »</a>Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-5586218176584043242011-03-10T08:00:00.000-08:002011-03-10T08:00:20.090-08:00Hobby: Green Stuff 101<div align="justify"><br>
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<div align="justify"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXnospMjhCGH2PUc4NGnmlpHjsRiPUovwORN43V9BI7XV9kY9NLQwHTmX5SgtSl4DjAyg6AsYfTCsl9XFhJtktbHYXF3liNG-0ePPnmp3UAlZpkQ9BopNb1R_nTO1rPw2nGXXK9xLcldwF/s1600-h/GStubes.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345473094290786578" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXnospMjhCGH2PUc4NGnmlpHjsRiPUovwORN43V9BI7XV9kY9NLQwHTmX5SgtSl4DjAyg6AsYfTCsl9XFhJtktbHYXF3liNG-0ePPnmp3UAlZpkQ9BopNb1R_nTO1rPw2nGXXK9xLcldwF/s200/GStubes.jpg" style="float: left; height: 200px; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; width: 160px;"></a>For many epoxy putty (a.k.a. green stuff) is a difficult modeling medium to use. This was the case for me until I took a class at a convention on using green stuff in conversions. This class taught me three important concepts when it comes to working with green stuff. Once I learned these concepts, working with green stuff became a breeze.</div><a href="http://tacticalrock.blogspot.com/2011/03/hobby-green-stuff-101.html#more">Read more »</a>Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-76802641891806892092011-03-09T08:00:00.000-08:002011-03-09T08:20:03.052-08:00News: Reaper Box Set Packaging Change<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.reapermini.com/graphics/gallery/4/10014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="264" src="http://www.reapermini.com/graphics/gallery/4/10014.jpg" width="320"></a></div><br>
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We interrupt the upcoming best of series with this breaking news. What's this? Is this something that would only be released by a Texas company? Is it a gun case? Is it a lunch box, or maybe... <br>
<a href="http://tacticalrock.blogspot.com/2011/03/news-reaper-box-set-packaging-change.html#more">Read more »</a>Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-17271856536974430752011-03-08T08:00:00.000-08:002011-03-09T19:07:52.503-08:00For The Time Being<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg_fgHZPffqvh70LAL5_peqeyUuQOcDtM4KDeZKh_LAKOiCL7h9Jj7MPaxf8MGuLoOhnSmY9AhIytnQwT9mtq88MJU4CFYELD0D7LSSkQcbOBCywtBYH578G9luNQwN12yUZ2X-T2DHOPh/s1600/recycle1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="193" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg_fgHZPffqvh70LAL5_peqeyUuQOcDtM4KDeZKh_LAKOiCL7h9Jj7MPaxf8MGuLoOhnSmY9AhIytnQwT9mtq88MJU4CFYELD0D7LSSkQcbOBCywtBYH578G9luNQwN12yUZ2X-T2DHOPh/s200/recycle1.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>For the next few posts I'll be using some of my greatest blog hits while I'm getting new content created and doing the facelift. Enjoy!Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-66326037366644480842011-03-07T18:39:00.000-08:002011-03-07T18:39:07.205-08:00Occasional Administrative Stuff<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsVeGlYSxp35sL0j9q3H-o3xaiAVfrE6yO5JIK3SiQGubtKGI4_6ciRIrCufeY_a-2Bt4S5klWKk-MK9GMJCq86xhNXpRz1DASK01_tZ6ZzpcblwjvxBeaLm0BUm1QhsTdEn1PKokrrP-b/s1600/nutbolts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsVeGlYSxp35sL0j9q3H-o3xaiAVfrE6yO5JIK3SiQGubtKGI4_6ciRIrCufeY_a-2Bt4S5klWKk-MK9GMJCq86xhNXpRz1DASK01_tZ6ZzpcblwjvxBeaLm0BUm1QhsTdEn1PKokrrP-b/s320/nutbolts.jpg" width="320"></a></div><br>
From time to time I post up blog announcements like plans and changes. Over the course of the next week or two I will be giving this blog a face lift. So let’s look at what is in store.<a href="http://tacticalrock.blogspot.com/2011/03/occasional-administrative-stuff.html#more">Read more »</a>Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-9057764946721055062011-01-05T12:00:00.000-08:002011-01-22T09:05:35.104-08:0040k Hobby: Yme –Loc Paint Scheme<span xmlns=""><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYfs01EBx5dYOHU7OysjXY4g9TOZfExHaY4N-nJ7pbaqmeDm4zZJk7zxtqs1am76js5aCG3iKHtFWDtpzppuJCr1rqFv_unRGxh7wKLPwbi_8nJ9qqyW2E8v8lUULcyk4JyDeuJOw91GI/s1600/yme_loc_logos.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYfs01EBx5dYOHU7OysjXY4g9TOZfExHaY4N-nJ7pbaqmeDm4zZJk7zxtqs1am76js5aCG3iKHtFWDtpzppuJCr1rqFv_unRGxh7wKLPwbi_8nJ9qqyW2E8v8lUULcyk4JyDeuJOw91GI/s1600/yme_loc_logos.jpg"></a></div>During the Holidays I took some time to paint up a couple of test models for the Yme-Loc army that was sent to The Girl. The first note I will make is that I used a wet palette to paint with. Wet palette allows me to get the most out of my paints. The second important note is that I almost exclusively use Reaper paint products. Reaper makes a line or paints that I really like and they work beautifully with a wet palette. What I'm going to do is list the paints I used in painting the models, and I will give rough Vallejo Game Color Equivalents because they just work out better.</span><a href="http://tacticalrock.blogspot.com/2011/01/40k-hobby-yme-loc-paint-scheme.html#more">Read more »</a>Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-51863727639359565782011-01-03T11:15:00.001-08:002011-01-03T11:20:09.447-08:00The Road Ahead 2011<div style="text-align: justify;"><span xmlns=""><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsPsL4O1M1J6OJa35a3SRgJAoWZoRUMQTfkpkZAIOQDfne2vZckawHDPxO0f-PxOsdTonSefPG43_TBXpIujUShnT1JZOMhJnfKnsOa5tc5Bsq00xTAxCNglWP7K7oNJBzYk9jt6j5o1mr/s1600/disappearingroad.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsPsL4O1M1J6OJa35a3SRgJAoWZoRUMQTfkpkZAIOQDfne2vZckawHDPxO0f-PxOsdTonSefPG43_TBXpIujUShnT1JZOMhJnfKnsOa5tc5Bsq00xTAxCNglWP7K7oNJBzYk9jt6j5o1mr/s320/disappearingroad.jpg" width="320"></a></div>When it comes to those of us who live in Austin, TX I am more the hobby guru. Not that this is a bad thing, but being more about all things hobby tends to hurt my game. Does this bother me? Not particularly but it reminds me where my priorities should be. Before I talk about my course for the coming year I always like to see where I have been.<br>
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</span></div><a href="http://tacticalrock.blogspot.com/2011/01/road-ahead-2011.html#more">Read more »</a>Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-13327513856076822032010-06-09T12:30:00.000-07:002010-06-09T12:30:00.109-07:00Book Review: Faith and Fire<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.coverbrowser.com/image/bestselling-sci-fi-fantasy-2006/3237-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://www.coverbrowser.com/image/bestselling-sci-fi-fantasy-2006/3237-1.jpg" width="247"></a></div><br>
“Faith and Fire” is an exciting novel about the Adeptus Sororitas by James Swallow. I normally do not pick up novels by authors I do not know on faction fluff that I care very little for; however, this little gem showed up in our break room at work in the take-and-read library. Since it was free and I enjoy the 40k universe I thought I would give it a chance.<br>
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<a href="http://tacticalrock.blogspot.com/2010/06/book-review-faith-and-fire.html#more">Read more »</a>Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-88968854922555698152010-06-02T20:10:00.000-07:002010-06-02T20:23:46.030-07:00HOBBY: The Word on Seal Coats pt. 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpzTzUA6g5wZAFqVMuogqqCUtdND16PCPVqmC1njdvsKnqHBOsLQG0UUSrB9Jt4rMblxLOBjWk5vGZRmdfvzRoeVoQvH0NtD9icPR4IXkWAxF_Re9HCUr3Gew7izRTbJU03S4phcYSukMw/s1600/Matt-Varnish.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpzTzUA6g5wZAFqVMuogqqCUtdND16PCPVqmC1njdvsKnqHBOsLQG0UUSrB9Jt4rMblxLOBjWk5vGZRmdfvzRoeVoQvH0NtD9icPR4IXkWAxF_Re9HCUr3Gew7izRTbJU03S4phcYSukMw/s320/Matt-Varnish.jpg"></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><a href="http://tacticalrock.blogspot.com/2010/03/hobby-word-on-seal-coats-pt-1.html">If you have not read part 1 do that now.</a> This time around we will discuss paint on sealers. <br>
</div><a href="http://tacticalrock.blogspot.com/2010/06/hobby-word-on-seal-coats-pt-2.html#more">Read more »</a>Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-69022311402283126202010-03-25T18:00:00.000-07:002010-06-02T20:15:17.991-07:00Hobby: The Word on Seal Coats pt. 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW2ij506de9tvh6fyNrXwVDsSN6dDzxcUdQY3tAqUPC-G6W4KZ8rZLtit0TOHv7ZchMOJXPjc7O3SkAuWMQWXe_TPfu6nxu5aPyWBmZ4kvbhnGXJB8-eMfyeAZkMaGiltAf5u_X0Tc7fz6/s1600-h/Tes1260.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW2ij506de9tvh6fyNrXwVDsSN6dDzxcUdQY3tAqUPC-G6W4KZ8rZLtit0TOHv7ZchMOJXPjc7O3SkAuWMQWXe_TPfu6nxu5aPyWBmZ4kvbhnGXJB8-eMfyeAZkMaGiltAf5u_X0Tc7fz6/s320/Tes1260.jpg"></a></div>I have received multiple requests asking me to write about sealing a miniature once it’s painted. Before you read this article please be sure to read both articles I have written on primer: “Primer on Primer” and “Q & A on Primer.” Many of the concepts I address in those articles apply to seal coats. As a note sealer and varnish are used interchangeably.<a href="http://tacticalrock.blogspot.com/2010/03/hobby-word-on-seal-coats-pt-1.html#more">Read more »</a>Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-91945155316761103612010-03-23T16:46:00.000-07:002010-06-02T20:18:01.990-07:00Hobby: Yellow like a Submarine<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtwW6ibcgylmBNdmSAiV8dPKVsApeOlPJdvKfcahnOkye6oNp3MB9SEdYxzp_fcOUuLprwI6GXbOe5MbEANE0tmofuLfUcOcB1g-18sUbk7QeLTLTg_H5KlHzVAsICRfG2CEGL94WDAYrM/s1600-h/yellow_paint_poster-p228844144005985020trma_400.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtwW6ibcgylmBNdmSAiV8dPKVsApeOlPJdvKfcahnOkye6oNp3MB9SEdYxzp_fcOUuLprwI6GXbOe5MbEANE0tmofuLfUcOcB1g-18sUbk7QeLTLTg_H5KlHzVAsICRfG2CEGL94WDAYrM/s320/yellow_paint_poster-p228844144005985020trma_400.jpg"></a></div>The color yellow is the bane to many a figure painter, but it doesn’t have to be. Before we dive into this subject let’s talk paint and what it is made of. Paint has three parts: binder, vehicle, and pigment. Binder is what keeps the other two parts of the paint together. Too little binder and the emulsion that is paint will fall apart. Vehicle is what the pigment is suspended in and contains resins, proteins, plastics, etc. in a liquid form. Pigment is the color. <br>
<a href="http://tacticalrock.blogspot.com/2010/03/hobby-yellow-like-submarine.html#more">Read more »</a>Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-19315249121933910292010-03-13T08:00:00.000-08:002010-06-02T20:19:23.212-07:00Hobby: Lining<div class="MsoNormal"><br>
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Let’s discuss an important aspect of figure painting. Lining is the act of taking a dark color and painting a dark line in areas where colors meet, and it makes painted figures look more neatly painted. It is an especially handy technique to define the outline of an object on plastic figures where the limitations of casting may cause items to blend into each other. It is commonly seen where clothes meet skin, seams in cloth, and flaps on bags, which is to say where colors change. </div><br>
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</div><a href="http://tacticalrock.blogspot.com/2010/03/hobby-lining.html#more">Read more »</a>Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-65158548120784075672010-03-12T04:47:00.000-08:002010-06-02T20:21:06.992-07:00Review: Battle Missions Kill Team<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrq3PDxQwz_FEzfFzzcupkba_GOaj_afN60D6RTeS6nwZ2_pwX1VwkyTODa-D9ZROWSE0L2FiwLjThOorW53K5ilBJrGICSa8T6FxGEpixArbmZ9B55ThKeMk9Z2ENuJiBg8s9uFbJCDqV/s1600/40k-battlemissions-cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrq3PDxQwz_FEzfFzzcupkba_GOaj_afN60D6RTeS6nwZ2_pwX1VwkyTODa-D9ZROWSE0L2FiwLjThOorW53K5ilBJrGICSa8T6FxGEpixArbmZ9B55ThKeMk9Z2ENuJiBg8s9uFbJCDqV/s200/40k-battlemissions-cover.jpg" width="143"></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;">In the 40K 4<sup>th</sup> ed. hardback rule book we found one of my all time favorite ways to play 40K: Kill Team. There were all sorts of great rules for sneaking about and executing a special operations mission. The major drawback to this mission in 4<sup>th</sup> ed. was that there were about 3 pages of rules that made Kill Team a game unto itself. </div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br>
</div><a href="http://tacticalrock.blogspot.com/2010/03/review-battle-missions-kill-team.html#more">Read more »</a>Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-11179597219378593912010-02-23T18:08:00.000-08:002010-06-02T20:21:47.551-07:00Hobby: Q & A on Primer<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZsy5UnpIUHrexS7jIf2Vj5va9ExrQp0Z2t76CQKBrRO6pSSh416tn16mdJuHDn3DahUUENfNLFbinu0Ko9muqS1krZ1gw0J2GMquDh-TW95GE3-EAo15ENx9G6QhzNzLPeaYeMceehpd6/s1600-h/questionmark.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZsy5UnpIUHrexS7jIf2Vj5va9ExrQp0Z2t76CQKBrRO6pSSh416tn16mdJuHDn3DahUUENfNLFbinu0Ko9muqS1krZ1gw0J2GMquDh-TW95GE3-EAo15ENx9G6QhzNzLPeaYeMceehpd6/s200/questionmark.jpg" width="200"></a><br>
Recently a friend of mine asked some questions about primer. His questions elicited responses that I did not cover in my original <a href="http://www.belloflostsouls.net/2009/04/hobby-primer-on-primer.html">Primer on Primer</a>. The answers were more specific and he found them more helpful than my original article, so I thought I would share the questions and answers here. I grouped some of the questions together because the answers are related. <br>
<a href="http://tacticalrock.blogspot.com/2010/02/hobby-q-on-primer.html#more">Read more »</a>Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-27085455001613972962009-12-26T09:48:00.000-08:002010-06-02T20:22:14.252-07:00Project Log: The Shelf of Shame<div style="text-align: justify;"><br>
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</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB3Bi32CIc_013JFsW6_hsIvmsjvBfeEO5DOj63MwOikumDhQU9pq-VG1vz5ATs6979YfrHVCJbh35AEPeD3giUecVpgAd10N3DGaOUKineXFnYpE-9JfWCqhSzOsUiRV-IGOt4UxyIZCU/s1600-h/shame3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" ps="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB3Bi32CIc_013JFsW6_hsIvmsjvBfeEO5DOj63MwOikumDhQU9pq-VG1vz5ATs6979YfrHVCJbh35AEPeD3giUecVpgAd10N3DGaOUKineXFnYpE-9JfWCqhSzOsUiRV-IGOt4UxyIZCU/s320/shame3.jpg"></a><br>
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</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBScnid10UCuDTFE9o5mQpOttnnTjbXJYBbzbpYmityjU14d1QDGSKNY6xDCAdLwHA7EHja-StM-zuG-wO5i96B-aDoJwwJKm7e4wGl4VYkfufmb8AiaLroQLRIZobtfVv5o1Zf8vxVSof/s1600-h/shame4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" ps="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBScnid10UCuDTFE9o5mQpOttnnTjbXJYBbzbpYmityjU14d1QDGSKNY6xDCAdLwHA7EHja-StM-zuG-wO5i96B-aDoJwwJKm7e4wGl4VYkfufmb8AiaLroQLRIZobtfVv5o1Zf8vxVSof/s200/shame4.jpg"></a>Well there it is in all of its procrastinated glory. I have even more unpainted figures for the Empire, but this is the army that I will be painting up according to the list that I drew up in my last installment. As you can see my force is in various stages of paint, from bare plastic/metal all the way up to being done. <br>
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; text-align: justify;"></div><a href="http://tacticalrock.blogspot.com/2009/12/project-log-shelf-of-shame.html#more">Read more »</a>Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-11031897603480249342009-11-30T20:33:00.000-08:002009-11-30T20:35:30.386-08:00WFB Hobby: Coming Out of Semi-Retirement<div align="justify"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVX1tdEx8r82jiskUPT6n5lwOE94W_ddztsx1YI95chJZPwWwfzGRklZbx7MsYT_8-AZAvvqDSqRNJCgIV0kB_mzmDf4G3qKrm1FE66NPuT4mT_N09UFf2-dPifd5e594P_3rTE-bCFm0/s320/warhammer-fantasy-7th.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 234px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVX1tdEx8r82jiskUPT6n5lwOE94W_ddztsx1YI95chJZPwWwfzGRklZbx7MsYT_8-AZAvvqDSqRNJCgIV0kB_mzmDf4G3qKrm1FE66NPuT4mT_N09UFf2-dPifd5e594P_3rTE-bCFm0/s320/warhammer-fantasy-7th.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Over the last two years my tournament WFB armies have been pretty much retired. They would come out from time to time to play friends or help folks out in tuning their forces up, but I have really not had much of an interest in playing tournament games with them. Mind you some of this is due to some absolutely horrendous sportsmanship at the first WFB ‘ard Boyz. Well, Minus 67 has talked me into pulling my oldest army out of retirement, which is now 20 years old. It is the one army I own that has the best chance of being competitive in the Daemon/Vampire dominated tournament scene, and one of the few armies that consistently shows up in the top ten rankings. That army is the Empire.<br /><br />My Empire army is a multi-generational army that was started on the tail end of 3rd start of 4th edition. Its main core of troops was initially built using the figures found in the GW-Milton Bradley Game called Battlemaster. Many of those figures are still in my army, and yes they are absolutely tournament legal because they were made by GW. In 6th edition my army got its first real face lift with the figures that came out with the boxed set. Then in 7th edition, after the recent army book, I got the battalion box with the new style troops.<br /><br />I’m sure that by now many of you are wondering what all of this rambling is about and I assure you that I have a point. I’m going to write a series of hobby articles revolving around rehabilitating this old army for tournament play. I will also discuss some of my thought processes behind unit selection and tactics. Overall, I will be focusing more on the hobby aspect of all of this because that is what I enjoy the most, and it will give me a framework for the hobby articles I have thought about writing.<br /><br />I’ve designed a preliminary army. The build had a few main goals. They were: 1. Use what I have. 2. Make something fun to play and play against. 3. Make sure it has a chance to perform well. 4. Leave room for improvement.<br /><br />With that in mind I designed the following list. It is far from perfect, but it looks interesting and should put up a decent fight.<br /></div><br /><br /><div align="justify"><em><strong>Empire Army List<br /></strong></em></div><br /><br /><div align="justify"><em>Arch Lector Of Sigmar on War Altar x1 w/ Wyrmslayer Sword, Armor Metoric Iron, Van Horstman's Speculum; 295pts<br />3x Battle Wizard Level 2 w/ Dispel Scroll x2; 450pts<br />Knights Blazing Sun x10 w/Full Command, Steel Standard; 290pts<br />Halberdiers x30 w/ Full Command; 170pts<br />Spearmen x30 w/ Full Command; 170pts<br />Crossbowmen x20 w/ Full Command; 180pts<br />2x Handgunners x10 w/ Marksman, Hochland Long Rifle; 210pts<br />Great Cannon x3; 300pts<br />Mortar x1; 75pts<br />Hellblaster Volley Gun x1; 110pts<br /><br /><strong>Total: 2250pts 134 Models 8PD/7DD</strong><br /></em><br />The goal with this build is for the big units to act as meat shields for the casters. The Arch Lector is for general beat down, and I think it is pretty self-evident what the shooters are for. I realize that I spammed my artillery and casters, but I think that is a small matter. My greatest strength is guessing range, and I have enjoyed a lot of success with the big guns. Nothing brings a wider smile to my face than when my opponent walks into the mouth of the Hellblaster, or when my opponent thinks my ranges are off only to find that they have been hit by three cannons and a mortar.<br /><br />I will be looking at ways to add a Steam Tank into this army. I may also look at some alternative builds, but for now it looks like I have a good starting point.<br /><br />In my next installment I will face my shame publicly by producing the Portrait of Shame, or as I call it, “What I should’ve finished painting ages ago.” I will examine what exactly I will need to do to get this force fully painted and on the table. I will discuss how I will plan this all out, and I will look at what will need to get its paint stripped and what can just remain as is.<br /><br /><span style="color:#cc0000;"><em>All right readers your turn! Have at my build. Also let me know what major army plans you are looking at for the 2010-2011 Tournament Season.</em></span> </div>Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3352641950800687205.post-2347903859093072202009-10-23T20:40:00.000-07:002009-10-23T20:45:02.204-07:00Hobby: Vallejo Course Pumice<div align="justify"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEsUmK7jHkzD3btqRfk6bjy0e4nG1Df-ChBSmltpANa9LyVMNXHUDcCtDzI-y111SptWT-X097HUWQfUAvSGmOvBf8_4ZJEXdcpd7gKK151dEEN8UvvQPKcyalhZHxwVmGtmBe3yhMabLj/s1600-h/VA599.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 150px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5395564311587754914" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEsUmK7jHkzD3btqRfk6bjy0e4nG1Df-ChBSmltpANa9LyVMNXHUDcCtDzI-y111SptWT-X097HUWQfUAvSGmOvBf8_4ZJEXdcpd7gKK151dEEN8UvvQPKcyalhZHxwVmGtmBe3yhMabLj/s200/VA599.jpg" /></a> One of my favorite mediums for applying to the base of a figure is Vallejo Course Pumice. This stuff is pumice sand in a suspension of acrylic resin, which looks like a sandy paste. When it is dry it has a rough sandy texture to it. This stuff has some utility beyond basing, which is why I love using it so much.<br /></div><br /><div align="justify">I utilize this stuff just as one would use sand and PVA/white glue. The main difference is that when the pumice is dry it is much harder and I do not have the flaking problem that one may get with sand. I also have found that I can add bits pushed down into the pumice. When I do this the pumice effectively glues the bit down to the base. The reason I have moved to using this is that any gap in the slotta base is easily and quickly covered over by the pumice.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCYcr7TUH2z9WiLYdG1IJnkTRijvGWMX88OXrlzv0T5NhA2QEOBMh8aoT9-6Q6kRdZ_H7ixLQbdNeIJ7Vk5TKqI5XL8HlW7yCFe3sJdy_TqR3NFeKeXaaaSKI97jTh-RbhpYa18awLRNjx/s1600-h/100_1226.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 213px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 164px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5395564460029108642" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCYcr7TUH2z9WiLYdG1IJnkTRijvGWMX88OXrlzv0T5NhA2QEOBMh8aoT9-6Q6kRdZ_H7ixLQbdNeIJ7Vk5TKqI5XL8HlW7yCFe3sJdy_TqR3NFeKeXaaaSKI97jTh-RbhpYa18awLRNjx/s320/100_1226.jpg" /></a>When I use the Vallejo Pumice I start by guessing at a portion I will need, and I will take out that portion from the tub and place on an old bottle cap or jar lid. I transfer what I need out of the tub so I do not prematurely dry out what is left in the tub, which is also a useful tip when working with premixed spackle.<br /><br />Once I have my working stock, I begin applying the pumice to the base with an old #11 X-Acto blade. (Important safety tip: when using old hobby blades for non-cutting projects be careful because they are dull the cuts they can make to you are worse.) I start working from the inside of the base outwards, and I work with a wet blade. A wet blade is a blade that has been dipped in water, and is useful because it will smooth the surface of the pumice.<br /><br />Once the pumice is applied to the entire base there are a few directions to go. The most obvious is to let the pumice dry and treat it like sand on a base. This works just fine and is most useful when painting armies. However, I like getting outside of the box and found that this pumice will hold bits on to the base like glue. What I have done is applied bits from my bits box, talus, or ballast to bases to add some visual interest.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgimII3rVfYo0r-trODacnUCMxmWIRv6gZ6QW2F4dM00FKYIi1mRLQheci-OTlmteqVdzCXbSwtjBbKQRAE-GEbO1daBTzc_PdliJf-hySds1xiE-nP4YI2bBBoSVmZjzm8U8fj1VAxhykI/s1600-h/100_1228.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5395565984210977074" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgimII3rVfYo0r-trODacnUCMxmWIRv6gZ6QW2F4dM00FKYIi1mRLQheci-OTlmteqVdzCXbSwtjBbKQRAE-GEbO1daBTzc_PdliJf-hySds1xiE-nP4YI2bBBoSVmZjzm8U8fj1VAxhykI/s320/100_1228.jpg" /></a><br />At the beginning of this article, I wrote about the utility of this product. One of my favorite aspects about the Vallejo pumice is that it adds some actual weight to a base. It doesn’t add enough weight to counter balance off center metal models, but it works perfect for plastic figures. My other use for this product is on vehicles. I have found it works great for modeling mud build up on tracks, track guards, and tires.<br /><br />There are some who will argue that sand works just as well, or that the $12(US) price tag is a bit much. However, I have based close to 4 dozen figures and still have more than half a tub left. Also when you are spending $15-$60(US) for single models the price consideration becomes negligible. Overall I like this stuff and recommend that everyone give it a try.<br /></div><div align="justify"></div><div align="justify">Before I close out this article I thought I would share a picture of my finished witch figure from my last article. Enjoy!<img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 389px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 209px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?act=attach&type=post&id=18863" /></div><br /><br /><div align="justify"><br /><em><span style="color:#cc0000;">For those of you who have used the Vallejo Course Pumice tell us about your experience with it. Also feel free to post up your ideas with how you would use this stuff.</span></em> </div>Psyberwolfehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08535316068724852884noreply@blogger.com0